Stays at the Pass
As a pastry chef working in Michelin-starred restaurants for six years now, I've seen more than just perfectly plated dishes and elevated service. I’m lucky to work in an open kitchen for 2 main reasons:
- It breaks down the mystery of food preparation, making it an experience for the diners
- It creates a safe kitchen for all team members where the chef can’t shout or insult. I’ve worked in toxic kitchens where I was burnt with a hot a spatula on the arm for saying ‘yes’ and not ‘yes, chef.’
Anyway, an open kitchen means a counter, which we call the ‘pass,’ from where we plate and send dishes out. It also means I get a glimpse into many of our guests' lives around those tables: whispered proposals, quiet moments of pure culinary experience, and everything in between.
Picture this: the restaurant, and me, at the pass - the pastry counter. Each table in the dining room tells a story, and tonight, let’s forget the fancy plates for a moment and talk about the people who bring these rooms to life. Here’s a rundown of the main characters I’ve encountered:
- The Epicures: Culinary Scientists in Disguise (Table 1, Center)
First up, we have the Epicures. These are my people, seated near the pass for a privileged view of the culinary show. I like to call them Food Science Fanatics. They’re not just impressed by a pretty plate; they want to know everything. The techniques, the science behind transforming simple (or not so simple) ingredients into gastronomic creations, and the storytelling behind every dish.
Some of the questions I’ve been asked are:
- "How did you get the soufflé so perfectly risen?"
- "How do you make your sourdough?"
- "Where did the inspiration for the dessert come from?"
Such questions make my chef’s heart happy. It reminds me of a guest who studied my dessert like he was in a lab. He had a notebook, and he was scribbling notes about the textures, the layers, and the flavor combinations. He was also very interested in our homemade sourdough bread. He even asked for some recipes! I ended up chatting with him for a good 20 minutes, explaining everything. He was geeking out, and honestly, so was I. I gave him a tour of the pastry lab (yes! We like to call it a lab). And he left the restaurant with some sourdough starter and rye flour, ready to start his own bread-baking adventure. It got me thinking about how much of my job is about teaching, something I aspire to do more of in the future.
And then there are the solo diners at Table 2, facing the pass. They often come with a book, a journal, or a quiet curiosity. I always feel a special connection with them, as I’ve fine-dined alone several times before and truly enjoy it. I love the focused attention. I’ve noticed that when you dine alone, you tend to bond more with the restaurant team, giving them your undivided attention, and in return, they do everything they can to ensure your comfort.
- The Repeaters: Our Culinary Ambassadors (Table 5, By the Window)
Then, we have our regulars, our familiar faces, occupying their usual spot, who make fine dining a cherished habit. Currently, Mr. and Mrs. M are legends at our restaurant. They have been here 27 times since we opened last year, and they’ve booked us for around 14 business dinners. They are, without a doubt, our walking, talking marketing, introducing others to our culinary world. And you know what else is great about them? We totally use them as guinea pigs! Whenever the head chef and I are working on new dishes, we’ll prepare a special tasting for them. They have incredibly refined palates, and they provide the most amazing, constructive feedback. They’re like our personal food critics, but in the best possible way. I always feel a sense of pride when they give their approval. And at my previous restaurant, Mr. Baptiste and Mr. Jean had weekly reservations (on different days). Funny coincidence, they eventually became friends after seeing each other so often at the restaurant.
- The Special Occasion Crowd: Marking Milestones with Meals (Tables scattered)
Fine dining is the place for life's big moments. Birthdays, anniversaries, promotions – we see them all. And most exciting of all, the proposals! I’ve been an accomplice in so many romantic moments, from hiding rings in desserts to writing "Will You Marry Me?" in chocolate. It’s like being in a rom-com.
I’ve seen people whisper "yes" with tears down their faces, but this one proposal stood out. The guy was so nervous the whole time. He was sweating, constantly adjusting his sleeves, and excusing himself to the washroom every 15 minutes. It was obvious that something was up. The big moment arrives. I bring out the desserts, with a covered sphere which held the ring. The guy starts his speech, though I couldn’t quite hear what he was saying, and the lady looked… perplexed, a little teary-eyed. And she starts shaking her head. The guy gets down on one knee, with the ring… and she just keeps shaking her head. My guess is that she said no, because the guy put the ring back in his pocket. My heart sank for him, and for the melting dessert before them. "This is a culinary tragedy on top of a romantic one!" After a long 45 minutes of emotional turmoil, they finally ate the ruined dessert. "This will be the dessert I'll remember for the wrong reasons." But no. What happens after they finished the final course? The guy pulls out the ring, again! And this time, the lady said yes!!! The other guests were mostly clueless, but the whole kitchen erupted in cheers. The guy looked at us, with the biggest smile and thumbs up! I’d like to think that eating the dessert helped the lady change her mind xD
From all the proposals I’ve witnessed, you wouldn’t believe how nervous the guys are. The women are usually quite composed, but the guys? Sweating, fidgeting, turning red, excusing themselves to the restroom after every course… It’s kind of endearing, actually.
- The Bucket List Diners: Dreams Fulfilled (Table 8, Full of Excitement)
For some people, fine dining is a unique experience, something they’ve saved up for, and they bring this incredible energy with them. I remember this student, Hannah. She had been following the restaurant, Pic ***, on Instagram for two years, and she’d been saving up from her part-time job to finally dine with us. (For an idea, the menu with drinks will cost around €600.) When she arrived, her eyes were wide with wonder, and she was determined to enjoy every moment. It touched me to see someone so genuinely excited about something we do every day. For guests like her, there’s a different kind of pressure. I always feel a heightened sense of responsibility and a desire to exceed their expectations. So, whenever we can, we add a little extra attention, perhaps by surprising her with an extra dish or bringing out special elements of surprise, to ensure she has a truly perfect experience.
Speaking of bucket lists, mine is ridiculously long! FZN, De Nieuwe Winkel, Noma, Core, Tresind Studio, Naar, Restaurant Horvath, Le Sakara… I could go on and on! What’s on yours?
- The Culinary Connoisseur: A Star Among Stars (Table 3, Center Stage)
The judges of fine dining. Word buzzed through the kitchen: a VVIP. Escorted by the culinary and F&B directors, we knew he was someone important. Alexander the Guest arrived, and for me, it was more than just a VIP; it was the critic whose reviews I’d watched over and over on YouTube, whose travels I’d followed online. And he was here, in our dining room. It was a surreal moment. As a pastry chef, I like to chat with guests. But with Alexander, I had my fan-girl moment. I seized the opportunity, not only to express my admiration for his work but to get feedback on the dessert. It was a rare and thrilling exchange.
- The Business Meetings: Deals Over Delicious Food (Table 12, Serious Vibes)
This might seem a bit out of place, but we get a lot of business meetings. The quiet, refined atmosphere is perfect for focused conversations. I don’t have any super specific stories about these guests. They’re usually pretty focused on their deals, and they don’t engage with the team as much. A great meal can definitely help seal a deal!
- The Phone-First Diners: Lost in the Scroll (Everywhere, unfortunately)
And then there are… those guests. This is my least favorite category, hands down. While I understand the impulse to be on your phone or to capture moments (I also take pictures when I go to such restaurants), it’s a little heartbreaking to have guests fully disengaged from the service we aim to provide by being glued to their phones the whole time. There's a huge difference between casual dining and the immersive experience fine dining offers, which demands more engagement and less distraction.
A Symphony of Flavors and Fellows
At the end of service, each guest brings a unique energy to the dining room. It’s interesting to see the diverse reasons people seek out the Michelin-starred experience, and as a pastry chef, it’s an exciting place to work in such a dynamic industry. It never gets boring, and it's fun to be a part of the ever-evolving narrative.
Fun fact: fine dining isn't an everyday occurrence for most, but Michelin inspectors have to evaluate at least 275 meals per year, which definitely means they eat at fine-dining restaurants for a long consecutive set of days. Thankfully, the company provides fitness membership reimbursement to help offset all of that eating.